Technical FAQ & Installation

Your package includes 7 structural 3D-printed parts (1 Center Body, 2 Outer Bodies, 2 Wings, and 2 Mounting Blocks), 8 assembly screws with 8 matching square nuts, an installation hex key, and 2 vehicle mounting screws. Optional: You can add our T20 key to your order if you don’t own a Torx T20 driver.

We intentionally print precise threads directly into the first sections of the plastic components. These built-in threads act as a natural lock. They create intentional resistance to ensure the Charge Groove never rattles apart from heavy vehicle vibrations on the trail.

Yes. When attaching the wings and outer bodies, do not tighten the screws completely right away. Leave them slightly loose, slide the components into their precise flush position on a flat surface, and then do the final tightening. (Note: Having a helper hold the mounting blocks in place while inserting the square nuts makes the process even easier!)

The fit is engineered to exact tolerances based on high-precision 3D scans of the vehicle. If your dashboard lid doesn't close completely flush after installation, it means the Charge Groove parts are slightly pinched or misaligned in the corners. To fix this, simply loosen the mounting screws, push the entire Charge Groove firmly forward toward you, and re-tighten the screws. This ensures the factory lid can close perfectly.

First, pre-position the Overlander on your dash to test the exact fit, then remove it. Separate your hook-and-loop strips and stick the rough "hook" side directly onto the designated spots on the bottom of the Overlander, then place the soft "loop" side back on top. Finally, use the included alcohol wipe to thoroughly clean the vehicle's mounting surface and let it dry completely.

Peel the backing covers off the exposed loop strips. Ensure the built-in locking wedges are pulled back completely flush with the main bracket so the unit can slide into place without catching. Position the dock flush against the dash, press down firmly to set the adhesive strips, and use the included Allen key to tighten the retention screws on both sides until the dock resists wiggling. Note: Do not over-tighten.

Slide your accessory base into the Overlander track and tighten it down. When attaching a double-socket arm to the mounting ball, ensure the closed/clamping section of the arm captures the ball securely before positioning your device cradle.

To take the dock off, completely loosen the retention screws on both sides with your Allen key and push the screws all the way forward to release the internal locking wedges. Because the heavy-duty adhesive strips create a tight bond, give the Navidock a firm, steady pull to release it from the dash.

Slide two of the large square nuts into the wedge slots (you can use a hex key to push them into alignment with the holes). Position the wedge onto the Cupdok so that its lower point slopes toward the back, away from the front edge. Insert the two larger screws and tighten them by hand just enough so the wedge can still slide, then push it all the way to the back.

Slide a square nut into the back of each mounting block until it aligns with the hole. Next, thread the pointed set screw into the block with the sharp point facing downwards. Crucial: Stop screwing once the sharp tip reaches the upper edge of the block—if the point extends past the edge, it will scratch your Cupdok when you try to slide it into place later.

First, use the large (5/32) hex key to slightly loosen the pre-installed ring screws just a hair so they can move. Make sure the large wedge is pulled all the way back, then set the Cupdok into its place in the vehicle dash. Take your prepared mounting blocks and slide them into the dock slots—Alex recommends sliding them down to align with the third square slot on each side.

1. Use the small hex key to tighten the mounting block set screws just until they bite into the metal and stop sliding.
2. Push the Cupdok firmly down, shove the large stabilization wedge as far forward into the gap as possible, and tighten the wedge screw completely with the big hex key.
3. Fully tighten the two main pre-installed mounting ring screws.
4. Go back to the mounting blocks and torque the small set screws all the way down until they lock tight.

To fully assemble and install the Tubetrak, you will need the included hex key, a T20 Torx screwdriver, a Phillips head screwdriver, a 7 mm (or 9/32") socket wrench, and a sharp tool like a putty knife or butter knife. Your kit ships with the main tube track, a right and left bracket, two 1/4-20 screws, two square nuts, two long #10 screws, and two short #8 screws.

Lay the tube flat on your table with the Terra X logo pointing towards you. Wiggle the two square nuts into the track until they drop into place. Lay the left and right brackets on their flat sides, ensuring the open side of each bracket faces inward. Slide both brackets into the tube ends, align them with the square nuts, insert the 1/4-20 screws, and tighten them down evenly with the included hex key.

Unclip the sun visor to move it out of your way. Take your putty knife or sharp tool and carefully pry off the plastic cap on the front console recess (don't worry if it's stiff; this area will be covered up by the bracket). Next, use your T20 screwdriver to remove the factory visor clip screw, and use your 7 mm socket to back out the main factory chassis screw. Repeat this entire teardown process on the passenger side.

The kit includes two different sets of screws for the vehicle installation, and mixing them up will cause fitment issues:

• Short #8 Screws: These go into the mounting holes closest to the sun visor clips.
• Long #10 Screws: These go into the forward mounting holes where the factory plastic caps used to be.

Hold the fully assembled Visordok up to the ceiling, lining up the bracket slots with the cleared factory holes. Drop a short #8 screw into the visor clip side of the bracket, grab your Phillips head screwdriver, and thread it in loosely. Repeat this on the other side. Finally, insert the longer #10 screws into the front holes of both brackets and torque all four screws down firmly until the unit is rock-solid.